Pasta with Canned Tuna: The Great Debate.

I’ve never had anything against canned tuna. I love a good tuna melt on a pumpernickel bagel, or a quick version of spicy haraimi, but the day my friend proposed a nice plate of pasta col tonno and pulled out one of those little cans, I kind of recoiled in culinary horror.

As far as I was concerned, if it was once alive and breathing, Italian cooking would never stoop so low as to use a canned version. Was I ever wrong! Fifteen minutes later he put down a steaming plate of spaghetti in front of me and I devoured it incredulously. The sauce was tomato-based and savory and adhered to the al dente pasta in that perfect, only-in-Italy way. I could hardly taste the tuna, but something gave it that extra kick.

The other night, following a long and alcoholically indulgent weekend, a friend of mine suggested pasta col tonno for dinner. We were too lazy to hit the grocery store, and this being Rome it would have been closed anyway. He fished through my pantry and unearthed a dusty can of tuna and another of diced tomatoes.

I procured the olive oil, salt, peperoncino and a garlic clove.

“Oh no no! There’s no garlic or peperoncino in this recipe. It’s simple!” He was convinced. And Italian. Now I can hold my culinary own, but I’ve learned not to argue with a native—especially a Roman—in the kitchen. It has taken years to convince them that I won’t overcook the pasta or under-salt the water. My first tiramisu was met with shock and awe. They all asked for seconds though.

I let him make his tuna sauce, tasted it, and refused to bend. It was bland and I told him so. I ignored the old, “You’re American” comment and Googled it. I also called in for reinforcements.

I’m happy to report that I was right, and I will be proving it to him next time we’re too lazy and hung-over to cook anything else.

My Favorite Recipe:

Spaghetti col Tonno in Scatola (spghetti with canned tuna)
Serves four:

1/2-pound spaghetti
1 plump garlic clove (slightly smashed)
red pepper flakes to taste (a few shakes of the jar at least)
1 large can of tuna (drained)
1 can of diced tomato (preferably an Italian brand like Graziella)
1/2 cup of dry white wine
2-3 tablespoons olive oil

In a large saucepan, sauté the garlic clove and pepper flakes over a low heat. When the garlic is browned but not burned, remove from heat and add the tuna. Stir over low heat until tuna has a uniform texture. Add the wine, increasing the heat to cook it off (sfumata). Add the tomatoes, and fill the can 3/4 of the way with water and add it to the pan. Simmer until the sauce reduces and thickens. About 10-15 minutes.

Bring pasta water to a boil. Salt the water until it is savory when sipped from a spoon.
Cook al dente. Drain, leaving some pasta water aside. Combine the pasta and the sauce. Stir over medium heat adding pasta water to amalgamate.


Check back soon for more canned tuna recipes. I’m about to do a “quick fixes with flair” piece to kick off November….

Ciao baby!