Chewy, cheesy, and Feather-light Pizza. Say What?

Sforno

Via Statilio Ottato, 110/116. Tel 0671546118

It’s rarely worth ripping yourself from the ivy-swathed and cobble-stoned charm of Rome’s historical center, and ambiance is sorely lacking in the shabbier periphery of town, where food is often tastier and cheaper, if served with far less flair or care. Sforno, a clean, well-lighted pizzeria in the southeast Tuscolano area offers little in the way of rustic Italian style. What is does offer however, is the city’s oldest starter dough, or lievito madre. Those in the bread-baking know will appreciate the fact that these guys have been breaking off a chunk of old pizza dough to kick off the rising process in the new dough for about 150 years! The natural leavening means that huge Neopolitan-size pizzas, complete with creative toppings (the Greenwich pairs Stilton cheese with a Port reduction sauce) go down so easy you’d be tempted and able to order a second one. This leaves room for original appetizers like pumpkin and Parmesan suppli’ (those stuffed and fried rice balls everyone comes back from Rome raving about) and an ample list of ice cold artisanal beers.