Edgy Vegetarian and Just the Right Bottle

Arancia Blu

Via Prenestina, 396. Tel 064454105.

I might never have set foot in here if my friend and co-writer weren't a vegetarian. We were covering San Lorenzo, the city’s latest Boho-to-Soho neighborhood revitalization miracle, for Where Rome magazine. The area, supposed home of Saint Lawrence (barbecued to a crispy martyrdom for refusing to pay church taxes to the Romans and proclaiming the people to be the empire’s greatest treasure) has a history of outspoken populist ideals. The Communist epicenter of the city, and home to a number of squatters-turned-real=life artists, San Lorenzo was bound to have a vegetarian restaurant.

Indeed it did, and not only. Fabio Basson, owner and head chef not only scours the country for seasonal organic produce, but keeps the wine cellar stocked with high profile and intriguing Italian and international labels, with a stern sommelier at the helm. He didn’t stop there. Chocolate and coffee tastings up the connoisseur ante, and local art works adorn the walls with tasteful if, at times, desperately modern art.

The menu changes seasonally of course, and is peppered with enough creativity to distinguish the place as an arty alternative—take artichoke flan served in a Parmesan shell or fresh ravioli stuffed with whole porcini mushroom slices and sweet purple onions—whereas slightly retouched classics like eggplant Parmesan and perfect portion sizes keep the restaurant in the good graces of hungrier otherwise omnivores.

Fabio’s goal was to prove wrong anyone who believes the vegetarian lifestyle to be bland or boring. He’s succeeded beyond his expectations, setting the standard for new Roman restaurant culture along the way.

The restaurant has since moved to a new location in the even edgier neighborhood of Pigneto-Prenestina and now offers gorgeous outdoor patio dining,

If you appreciate a good bottle of wine, it’s easy to spend €45 a person, and incredibly worth every cent.